The geology also makes this a wonderful place for wild flowers and we look forward to a show of Spring beauty. Most of the day will spent on the clifftop or on the mid-cliff where we hope to have lovely views. The expectation is of a tough day in rolling countryside with the land rising in places up to seventy and eighty metres (two hundred and sixty feet). The weather forecast is good, with an expectation of fairly high temperatures.
In the early 1600's, Carleon was the location of a major pilchards fishery, ceasing to exist sometime in the early 1800's. Close to the beach location there was a 'serpentine' works, a type of rock that buffs up to a hard shine, much like marble. Serpentine is more common on the Lizard than anywhere else in the UK and the type found here is of slightly unusual colour, generally dark with veins of various shades of green, red and grey. A serpentine factory was established at Carleon in the 1800's, major production ceasing in the 1890's. To the back of the beach there are still the ruins of the factory but we did not have the time to visit it.
Not long after you leave Cadgewith you pass the natural arch known as the Devil's Frying Pan. Originally a sea cave, the roof has collapsed leaving behind the delicate little archway. Lying in the water and and on the sides, the rocks from the roof still lie. The name of Devil's Frying Pan derives from the turmoil evident in the pool at the back of the feature on a stormy day when the waters rush through the arch to crash against the shore. The views from here were tremendous with stunning colours in the sea and sky.
Slightly further along the coast, there is another natural arch known as The Chair Arch, located in Parn Voose Cove. As you walk along the cliff, you cannot see it but the face of the cliff below you is ridden with caves, presumably, some of which will end up as arches and, eventually, stacks.
There have been lifeboats at various locations on the Lizard since 1859, with the current life boat station commissioned 1961, with current 'building' commissioned circa 2011/12.
As you progress down the Lizard you are very aware that you are at the southern-most point of the mainland of Great Britain. The approaches to the point are stunning and, very busy. Long before you reach any of the buildings you are aware of the increase in people walking on the path, many of them inappropriately shod for rough walking. If you can take your eyes away from the buildings on the horizon, there are some very nice coves and rock features to be seen on this stretch. We were walking on a hard-packed, stony, earth path in quite hot weather and, on the cliff side, we were quite exposed to the heat. There was little in the way of breeze coming off the sea and you could feel the heat sap the strength from you.
Just beyond the wireless station museum, the stark outline of the Lizard Lighthouse dominates the hilltop. The first lighthouse here was built in 1619, as a private endeavour. However, it proved not to be commercially viable and was subsequently demolished. The current building was completed in 1751, again as a private project. The two lights were initially fuled by coal, but superceded by oil lights when the lighthouse was taken over by Trinity House in 1748. The lights were electrified in 1924, fully automated in 1998 and a heritage centre established 2009. The lighthouse function is now controlled from the Trinity House Control Centre in Harwich, Essex.
As is our practice on our travels, unless it is our day off, we did not stop to visit the many attractions we come across or we would never complete the journey round the coast of Great Britain. Instead, we have a ginormous list of places we intend to go back to. Continuing on to the Lizard proper where we hoped to have lunch, all the places round about were heaving with people but with perseverance and hussle from elbows and shoulders, we managed to grab a small corner table in the Polpeor Cafe and had a snack lunch. We made do with baked tatties with a filling, with a view to having our main meal later in the day. JE enjoyed the coconut ice-cream, unfortunately, it was not what she ordered!
The South West Coast Path skirts the bottom edge of Predannack Airfield, brought in to service in 1941 as a base for night fighter aircraft to protect the nearby ports of Falmouth and Penzance. We continued on Kynance Cliff out as far as Ogo-dour Cove, where we cut off at Predannack Woolas to move inland to our campsite.
It was a nice little set up offering caravan, campervan and camping facilities, as well as camping pods, with a new toilet and shower block, it had everything we required. We were a bit low on some supplies but were able to purchase the essential soap and shampoo from the site warden. That night, we cooked our own meal and ate it sitting at one of the big picnic tables, chatting with the warden and other campers. It had been a fine day's walking with splendid, often spectacular scenery and we carried the thrill of that to bed with us.